The Wheels on the Bus Go Round and Round...

Transportation in Cali still proves to be an interesting and sometimes frightening part of my daily life. Not only could I still continue to write my motorcycle diaries (my friend, Paola, often gives me a ride to class on her bike), but I could produce an entire book filled with my regular escapades on the bus.

Yesterday, for instance, after my journey from my apartment (in the South of the city) to Liliana and Fernando's house (in the north of the city), I arrived without enough money for the return bus trip (which is 1,500 pesos, or about 75cents). This was due to the various entertainers, vendors, and beggars who had given their spiels to us, the bus passengers (who, after all, are a captive audience). First, a crippled woman got on and presented to all of the passengers, explaining that she and her children had been displaced (due to violence), and she had not been able to find work in Cali. Although people always tell me to be skeptical of people asking for money like this (who are everywhere), I gave her a few coins. Then, a man performed by singing about how women should not be abused with his little guitar and reciting poetry (while still playing the little guitar) about how black and white people should get along, and I gave him some coins as well. Next, a man selling hand-crafted dolphin pendents boarded. I didn't buy one, but he had obviously worked so hard on his little sales pitch (talking about the endangered pink dolphins in Colombia's Amazon) that I felt he deserved a few coins, too. Finally, a man selling tooth brushes that fold-up hopped on, showing us how practical they could be. He ended by saying, "And by closing this tooth brush, you will prevent cockroaches from walking on the bristles!"... And, with a quality like that, how could I not buy one?!! =)

Even though cars are true luxury here and the majority of the population relies on buses and/or taxis, it is important to note that Cali (unlike Medellín and Bogotá) does not have a public transportation system. They are working on finishing a project of a bus line called the Mio, but (due to corruption and vandalism) this has been a very long-time coming. Therefore, all buses are privately-run businesses, and they can pretty much follow any rules that they want. There are no designated stops; bus drivers can arbitrarily change their normal routes; they will lie to you and tell you they go to places they actually don't (just so you'll hop on board); and they race with one another to pick up the many Caleños flagging down buses on the side of the road.

Bus performers must delicately keep their balance in the aisles. This Andean flute and guitar player ended up in my lap after we swerved to miss a large hole in the road.

The buses must maneuver through the crowded streets of taxis, pedestrians, cars, carts, horses, trucks, etc. Since they allow people to get off or on anywhere, this can prove to be quite a mess.

The trend seems to be "the more = the merrier." While I don't often get to ride on a "chiva" like this one (which is actually filled with indigenous people headed to the protest), I do often get to stand with lots of others in the aisles, packed in like sardines. This is particulary uncomfortable in the "busetas" (or smaller buses) because I am too tall and must hunch over, hoping that a seat will soon become available.Then, however, there are the times when I am alone on the bus. This makes me nervous because the driver sometimes gives me my money back and asks me to get off in some random place, as it "isn't worth it" to continue driving for just one person. This means I am left to find another bus to get me where I need to be, starting the whole process all over again...